would like to see the British fashion industry taking more risks
and using a lot more black, Asian and Indian faces on the catwalks and
fashion magazines. We are a multi-racial nation and this should be
reflected in advertising
Tandy Anderson is co-founder of Select Model Management
Kesh, 20, Fashion designer
Fashion designer, DJ and former editor of style title Super Super, Kesh has
caught the eye of musicians such as MIA, Mariah Carey and Lupe Fiasco with
her signature fusion of eclectic vintage, neon 1980s tracksuits and
oversized gold jewellery. Last December, she launched the fashion-label
Keshwear, and is now in talks to expand to New York.
Kesh says: "My style is what I call 'maximalisation': go-go 1980s
glamour, big jewellery, big hair, bright colours. I've been customising
clothes since I was 12. As an only child I used to spend hours in my bedroom
with old tracksuits, trainers, paints and pens. I was quite wild in the way
I dressed, but when I moved to London at 17 to study fashion at Southgate
College, the girls thought I was odd for wearing vintage gear. Eventually I
got kicked out for fighting, which was when I started customising for people
on the garage scene.
"Being black in this business, people love to class you as 'urban',
whereas a white person would be classed 'high fashion'. I'll never
understand that. But there are benefits too: I haven't got much competition
as a black female fashion designer. Fashion is very white-dominated, and I
think that's partly down to a reluctance in the black community to try to
get in to fashion. What I'm trying to do is show young black girls that it's
OK to be ambitious."
Junior Phipps, 35, Furniture designer
Phipps launched his company, Conscious Forms, with a line of cool,
concrete-based lighting designs in 2005. He is now working on a range of
products that encourage elements of interaction from the user.
Anderson says: "He has a functional, minimalist style, with a
Mediterranean feel; simply beautiful."
Richard Ampaw, 33, Model
Ampaw is one of the highest-earning black British models of the decade. He
has worked for Swatch, Hilfiger, Banana Republic and Macy's, and featured in
editorial work for i-D and Wallpaper.
Anderson says: "He's like the male Naomi Campbell in Europe – and one
of the biggest models that Select Men has on its books. When he walks
through a door with that million-dollar smile, people pay attention."
David Adjaye OBE, 40, Architect
David Adjaye's designs continue to create waves a decade after he started
out in the business. Trained at the Ghanaian Royal College of Art and with a
masters from the Royal College of Art, he is best known for the landmark
building Rivington Place and the Whitechapel Idea Store in east London.
Anderson says: "Adjaye is amazing. He is the future of British
architecture."
Edward Enninful, 34, Stylist and fashion director
London-based Enninful trained at Goldsmiths and, at 18, became the youngest
ever fashion editor of i-D, and is now fashion editor of Italian Vogue and
fashion editor-at-large of Japanese Vogue. He recently put Kate Moss in a
platinum wig on the cover of i-D.
Anderson says: "Enninful is one of the biggest stars in the industry. I
respect the fact that he's willing to take risks with up-and-coming people,
when they are still brand-new and exciting."
Pat McGrath, 37, Make-up artist
Dubbed by Vogue as "the most influential make-up artist in the world"
, McGrath makes inventive use of colour, latex petals and vinyl lips, which
have become a much-copied trademark. McGrath has worked with some of the
biggest names in the industry, including Jil Sander, John Galliano, Prada
and Dolce & Gabanna. In 2004, she was named global creative design
director for
Procter & Gamble.
Anderson says: "Everywhere I go in the world I see Pat. She is very
good at coming up with ideas and at pushing the boundaries of fashion."
Gavin Douglas, 24, Fashion designer
Douglas was named Young Avant-Garde Designer of the Year in 2004, and last
year won the prestigious Fashion Fringe competition. He has also had his
collection exhibited at Black British Style at the Birmingham Museum and Art
Gallery, curated by the V&A, and has just staged his second show at
London Fashion week.
Anderson says: "Retro-chic with hints of 1940s Yves Saint Laurent, his
colours are autumnal and the metallic fabrics complement the slick design –
an inspiration."
Naomi Campbell, 37, Model
Campbell is one of the most successful black women of her generation. She
made the cover of Elle at the age of 16 and, two years later, in 1988, she
became French Vogue's first black cover girl. Campaigns for major labels
such as Ralph Lauren and Lee followed, and she has since starred in music
videos, dabbled in writing, acting and singing. Despite various high-profile
legal battles, she is still one of the UK's foremost black female icons.
Anderson says: "Naomi has always been one of my favourite models, and
is one of the best out there. Plus, she seems to have calmed down a lot
lately."
Dennis Brown, 33, Graphic designer
Brown graduated only recently from the London College of Communication with
a BA in graphic design, but has already won a fellowship at the college and
was featured in its recent Black 100+ exhibition of portrait photographs
celebrating the work of outstanding black achievers.
Anderson says: "It's great that exhibitions such as Black 100+
are recognising the work of young people such as Brown – and hopefully it
will encourage more young people to succeed in the world of design. It's a
step in the right direction."
Duro Olowu, Fashion designer
Olowu started out designing clothes for his boutique on Portobello Road, and
is now considered one of the UK's most promising young designers. Last year
he was named New Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards. He has
just launched his second collection (right), and his signature Duro Dress is
now internationally recognised.
Anderson says: "An all-rounder, outstanding designs, totally classic
and wearable with an ethnic twist. I'm sure we'll see much more from him."
Research and interviews by Sarah Harris